Candi Dasa, Bali: A Peaceful Coastal Town and Nearby Must-Visits
- Olga Kurak
- Nov 4, 2024
- 10 min read
Updated: Mar 19
Hello everyone,
In my previous post, I shared my thoughts on the modern esoteric boom, Bali retreats, and contemporary spiritual mentors (link here). It sparked a wide range of emotions among my readers, leading to numerous comments and feedback on social media—some in full agreement, others engaging in lively discussions. Many readers even wrote personal messages, sharing their experiences and perspectives on these topics. I’m sincerely grateful to everyone for their feedback—it means a lot to me.
For this post, I wanted to write about something light and enjoyable, focusing on travel and exploration. What better topic than a detailed journey through Candi Dasa, Bali’s peaceful coastal town known for its authentic charm and relaxed vibe?
Why Candi Dasa, Bali, is the Perfect Starting Point for Your Journey
When I first arrived in Bali, my initial hotel booking was in the bustling center of the popular Seminyak resort. I arrived at night and couldn’t see anything around, so the next morning, stepping out onto the street was a bit of a shock. In my blog at the time, I noted: "A tourist district, full of small shops selling the same things: clothes, souvenirs, bags, jewelry, and more; cafes, restaurants, spas; hotels and villas; scooters, taxis—and crowds of tourists everywhere. I don’t feel the spirit of Bali yet, but as they say online, it’s not here—this is a tourist area." That was back in early 2020.
Now, after three years in Bali, if someone were to ask where I’d recommend going upon arrival, my answer would be Candi Dasa, also spelled Candidasa. This small coastal town, just an hour and a half drive east of the airport, hasn’t reached the crowded tourist scale of places like Canggu or Uluwatu. Instead, it retains its Balinese authenticity while offering great hotels, charming villas, and plenty of cafes and restaurants to suit any taste. To me, it’s the perfect spot to spend 3-4 days overcoming jet lag and unwinding after a flight. From there, you can explore Bali’s scenic mountains, popular resorts, or take a tour of the southeastern part of the island, which has much to offer.
In this post, I’ll share our experiences in Candidasa and the surrounding attractions that make this region a must-visit in Bali.
Our Travel Route: From Uluwatu to Candi Dasa
We booked a hotel in Candidasa, Bali, and used it as our base to explore top tourist spots and attractions in the region. We also included the Amed resort in our list to see if we might return there for a future vacation. But more on that later.
The scenic coastal road from Denpasar to Candi Dasa, Bali, offers beautiful views of the ocean and lush landscapes. As is typical in Bali, once you leave the tourist zones and city, you begin to enjoy the ride, driving rather than being stuck in traffic. Along the way, there are opportunities to turn a few kilometers off the main road to visit local temples, Bali Zoo, waterfalls, and Bali Bird Park.
Kebon Vintage Cars Bali: A Must-Visit Classic Car Museum
Our first stop, Kebon Vintage Cars Bali (Instagram)—a classic car museum in Denpasar—was a surprise for Santi and a unique addition to any Bali travel itinerary. As I’ve mentioned before, planning our trips is entirely my responsibility. Of course, I always send him our itinerary before we go, but he rarely looks at it before the trip starts. So every stop is a discovery for him.
The museum is located on the outskirts of Denpasar among private buildings. Arriving exactly at 10 am, right at the opening, we were the first and only visitors. You know, in my experience, anything can be called a museum. The ideas they are based on and their realization can sometimes be quite basic. When I added this museum to our list of places to visit, I didn’t have high expectations. I chose it mainly because it was on the way and also out of curiosity, as the concept seemed unusual for Bali. Santi even suggested skipping it; he didn’t have high hopes. But this was one of those cases where we spent over 2 hours there and thoroughly enjoyed it.
About Kebon Vintage Cars Bali:
It’s a private collection featuring over a hundred classic cars from famous brands like Chevrolet, Cadillac, Dodge, Pontiac, Morgan, Mercury, Plymouth, Hudson, Fiat, Mini Cooper, and others. The collection belongs to Mr. Jos Dharmawan, who began assembling it in 1996. All cars have been restored, look pristine, most are in working condition, and some can even be rented for special events like weddings.
What impressed me most was the sheer size of many of these vintage cars. I had seen many of them in old films from the last century, but they never seemed so large. After viewing all the cars and taking countless photos, we decided to have lunch at the museum’s café. As for lunch—don’t make the same mistake we did, but the museum itself is highly recommended.
Goa Lawah Temple: A Historic and Sacred Site in Bali
Continuing our Bali journey, we visited Goa Lawah Temple, a significant 11th-century Balinese Hindu site, known as one of Bali’s six most sacred places of worship. The temple is notable for being built around a cave inhabited by bats, hence its name Goa Lawah, or "bat cave." There, we encountered many tour buses, souvenir shops surrounding the parking area, and plenty of locals trying to sell you something, offering free bracelets or trinkets that they later ask you to pay for after putting them on you "as a gift." The temple itself is small, with beautiful Balinese architecture. We quickly walked around and moved on.
Bali’s Ancient Salt-Making Tradition at the Natural Salt Market
According to my itinerary, our next stop was the Natural Salt Market, a spot by the beach where locals extract salt from seawater using an ancient technique. It’s only 1.5 km from Goa Lawah Temple on the way to Candi Dasa. However, we missed the turn to the salt production site and had no opportunity to turn back. After driving for about a kilometer, Santi said, "Let’s head to Candi Dasa, and we’ll stop by next time." I agreed to his suggestion. If you’re in the area, make sure not to miss the turn because, according to tourist reviews, this place is worth a visit.
Exploring Candi Dasa, Bali: Hotel Genggong and Dining at Vincent’s
Candi Dasa, Bali, is a charming coastal town known for its serene atmosphere and the iconic Candidasa Lotus Lagoon—a freshwater body covered in blooming lotuses. The lagoon was just a two-minute walk from our hotel. What can I say? While it’s one of the town’s tourist attractions, the locals could maintain it in better condition.
When choosing a hotel, I prioritized those located in the town center. We planned to take an evening walk and explore the area on foot. We chose Hotel Genggong, situated on the beachfront. It’s not new, but very clean and well-maintained, with a lovely garden. Our room had a spacious terrace with an ocean view—what more could you need for a relaxing vacation?
One of the reasons I chose Hotel Genggong in Candi Dasa was its proximity to the highly-rated Vincent’s restaurant, a must-visit spot for dining in Candidasa, Bali. After resting from our drive, we headed there for dinner. I think most of you know that satisfying feeling when a place meets your high expectations. The restaurant’s concept, evening ambiance, service, and dishes were all top-notch. We even returned the next day, and I definitely recommend visiting this restaurant.
Exploring Bali’s Heritage: Taman Ujung and Tirta Gangga – Must-Visit Water Palaces Near Candi Dasa
The next morning after breakfast, we continued exploring Bali. The day promised to be packed with activities: we planned stops at various tourist sites on the way to Amed and then back to Candi Dasa.
Our first stop was Taman Ujung or Ujung Water Palace. Bali never fails to surprise. We were truly impressed by the park and the architecture of the complex. It takes at least two hours to see everything. Depending on the source, the park spans 9-12 hectares. There are plenty of cozy spots to rest, and we even saw a group of students having a small picnic on the grass. Although there were many tourists, the vast grounds of the palace made it feel uncrowded.
A brief history of the palace: The construction of Taman Ujung was initiated by King Karangasem I Gusti Bagus Jelantik in 1909. The project’s architects included a Dutchman named van Den Hentz, Loto Ang from China, and Balinese architects. Construction was completed in 1921, and in 1937, Taman Ujung was officially inaugurated. However, in 1963, the palace was nearly destroyed by the eruption of Mount Agung. For many years, it remained in disrepair, but from 1998 to 2001, it was restored and is now a popular tourist attraction.
Next, we visited Tirta Gangga, a former royal palace named after the sacred Ganges River in India. The complex was built in 1946 by the same King Karangasem I Gusti Bagus Jelantik who created Taman Ujung, which we had just visited. Tirta Gangga was a place of rest for the king and his family. The landscape design and park architecture are impressive, but due to its relatively small area (1 hectare), we walked among crowds of tourists. The grounds are filled with springs that feed ponds with fountains, home to fish of all colors and sizes that visitors can feed. This place is worth visiting, but it’s better to come in the morning.
Visiting Penataran Agung Lempuyang Temple: Bali’s Iconic 'Gate of Heaven'
If you’ve ever searched online for “Bali,” “beautiful Bali,” or “Bali temples,” you’ve probably come across photos like these.
Recognize the photo? Our next stop was the Penataran Agung Lempuyang Temple, the place where the photo was taken. It’s the first and lowest Hindu temple in the complex of seven temples known as the Lempuyang temples. Penataran Agung is situated at an elevation of 600 meters above sea level and is the most popular among tourists. The other six temples in the complex are less known.
It is believed that the establishment of worship sites around Mount Lempuyang, where the temple complex is located, predates most Hindu temples on the island. Pura Lempuyang Luhur, the main temple of the Lempuyang complex, is considered one of Bali’s six holiest places of worship.
Our Experience at the Lempuyang Temple Complex in Bali
This is one of Bali’s most famous tourist spots, so finding it is easy. We arrived at the parking area at the base of Mount Lempuyang and paid for the shuttle bus to Penataran Agung Lempuyang. The process was quick due to the large number of tourists. After paying, we waited 5-10 minutes for the shuttle to fill up before heading up the winding road to the temple, enjoying the scenic views along the way.
Upon arriving at the temple, we paid for entrance tickets and were provided with sarongs to cover our legs. A short walk then brought us to the temple itself.
Of course, I wanted a photo with Santi in front of the famous "Gate of Heaven." I can't even begin to describe the number of tourists we encountered on the relatively small grounds of the Penataran Agung Lempuyang Temple, mixed in with locals in traditional ceremonial clothing conducting their rituals.
A local guide quickly approached us and asked if we wanted a photo by the gate, to which we said yes. We were given a ticket with the number 136 and told to wait until our number was called. As much as I wanted a picture with one of Bali’s most iconic backdrops, waiting in such a long line felt impossible for me, and as for Santi, there was no way he would wait—even if we had received number 26. We quickly toured the temple, which was small but had the impressive architecture typical of Balinese temples, along with a stunning view of Mount Agung. The sheer number of tourists visiting solely for that Instagram-famous photo was surprising. We started debating what to do next. I wanted to see the remaining six temples, but neither of us had the energy or desire to walk uphill. While we were thinking it over, some local guys approached us, offering rides on their scooters up to the temples. After agreeing on a price, we headed up.
Most tourists visit only the first temple and don’t go further. Along the way, we saw only a few lone tourists walking up. The upper temples were closed, and some appeared abandoned. Nonetheless, we enjoyed the ride. After coming back down to the first temple with the guys, we hopped on the shuttle bus to return to the parking lot. Our feelings about visiting the temple complex were mixed. On one hand, the place has a rich history and is set on a mountain with breathtaking views, but like many famous tourist spots around the world, there is a trend toward mass tourism and commercialization. It’s easy to miss or overlook the true value of the place.
Discovering Amed, Bali: A Peaceful Retreat for Snorkeling and Diving
Hungry and tired, we headed to Amed. We had tried to eat at a café near the temples, but after waiting 25 minutes for a coconut and a Coke, we left. It was hard to imagine how long we would have waited for freshly prepared food.
In hindsight, including Amed in our itinerary might not have been the best idea, even though it’s only 13 km from Penataran Agung Lempuyang. After visiting all the temples, we were exhausted, so upon arriving in the village, we immediately began noticing its drawbacks, comparing everything to Uluwatu. This was an unfair comparison, as resorts in different parts of the island vary greatly in weather, beaches, tourist numbers, and development. We decided to stop and have lunch at La Cocina Mexicana, which I chose based on reviews—and I wasn’t disappointed. The food was delicious, the atmosphere friendly, and the service quick. After lunch, everything around us looked better. We drove down the main street, had coffee at a café, and walked to the beach, which is covered in black volcanic sand, like all the beaches in the area. Amed, located about an hour's drive from Candi Dasa, is renowned for its stunning coral reefs and vibrant underwater marine life, making it a top destination for snorkeling and diving enthusiasts in Bali. Along the main road, there are centers where you can book freediving or snorkeling tours. The area has many cafes, restaurants, villas, and hostels. Amed is a resort for slow-paced vacations, ideal for those who want to get away from it all.
After Amed, we returned to our hotel in Candidasa. The next day, we spent relaxing by the hotel pool. We love combining relaxed hotel stays with sightseeing trips in the area we’re visiting.
That wraps up my journey exploring the beautiful coastal town of Candi Dasa, Bali, and nearby must-visit spots like Taman Ujung, Tirta Gangga, Penataran Agung Lempuyang Temple, and Amed. I hope you found this guide enjoyable and insightful. If you have any questions about our experiences or are planning your own Bali adventure, don’t hesitate to reach out—I’d be delighted to help. Also, feel free to share your favorite destinations and travel tips for Candidasa and nearby must-visit spots that I haven’t covered in my post—leave them in the comments!
Until next time,
Olya.
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